The currency of Zambia is the kwacha — meaning “sunrise,” so-named to celebrate Zambia’s independence — denoted by the symbol ZK (ISO code: ZMW).

The currency was re-based (dropping the last three zeros) between January 2013 and June 2013, but you can occasionally receive change in both the new re-based currency and the old currency. ATMs and banks will only issue the new currency (there are helpful posters everywhere with the new and old notes).

U.S. dollars are still commonly used for larger purchases (although it’s illegal) and will be accepted by anybody dealing with tourists. It is not unusual to see all printed prices at a hotel restaurant in local currency, and then receive a bill in U.S. dollars. If you bring U.S. dollars, in Zambia only the “big heads” (new notes) are accepted in banks and bureaux de change, small heads are not accepted (if you are lucky you can change them in Livingstone). US$50 and US$100 notes are the best to bring, for smaller nominations you will get a poorer rate at the bureaux (5-10% less).

Changing euros is difficult, especially up country: bureaux are giving a very poor rate (25% less than the market rate!) International banks will accept, but with commission charge. Finance Bank, Arcades Shopping Centre Lusaka is known to accept euros at a good rate and without commission charge. Bureaux and banks will only change a maximum of US$1000 (or equivalent) per person per day. Watch the rates as they can change overnight, fluctuations of 3-5% per day are common.

South African rand are exchanged relatively easily in major centers. Other second tier currencies like the Australian dollar are not worth bothering with. Expect blank looks from the locals, and a mocking laugh from those in the tourist trade.

If you want to sound like a local, refer to 1000 kwacha as a pin, so for example 10,000 kwacha is “ten pin”. In the 1990s, the kwacha devalued so rapidly that the government didn’t have time to produce new, larger bank notes. To pay for things, Zambians often had to bundle — or “pin” together — large numbers of small bills.

ATMs:

ATMs may be found in all major towns/cities. Most of the ATMs accept Visa and Master cards. Other international credit cards (like American Express) can also be used at some ATMs. Maestro is definitely a problem in Zambia and very few ATMs accept Maestro. many shops and restaurants accept debit or credit cards, as do practically all high-end hotels and safari lodges, but surcharges of 5-10% are common. ATMs only dispense local currency. the three big banks’ ATMs which take Mastercard/Visa Card are Stanbic Bank, Eco Bank, Standard Chartered Bank. Traveler’s cheques are impossible to process in Zambia.

BY PLANE:

Domestic flights on Proflight connect Zambia’s major cities and tourist destinations. While undoubtedly the fastest and most comfortable way of getting around, they are quite expensive with an hour-long flight (say, Lusaka-Mfuwe) typically costing around US$150 one-way. Also note that planes are small and schedules sparse, but if you can rustle up enough people you can also charter planes for not much more.

BY MINIBUS:

Minibuses — meaning vans outfitted with seats — are popular, but they are often irregular, dangerous, and uncomfortable. To maximize profits, a “conductor” will squeeze as many paying customers — and their luggage, or katundu (ka-TOON-doo) — into the bus as possible; whether or not the customers are comfortable is irrelevant. In terms of meeting locals, however, this method is among the best, and it can provide a traveler with a truly “authentic” experience. Payment is made during the journey — banknotes are passed down the bus to the conductor at the front, and change comes back via the same route.

BY BUS:

Larger, more sophisticated “luxury coaches” exist, too. These tend to be more reliable and safer; they depart on-time; they have dedicated space for guests and luggage; and tickets may be purchased in advance. Luxury coaches are much more comfortable and are virtually guaranteed to arrive, but they might seem “generic” to a seasoned traveler.

BY CAR:

Vehicles drive on the left side of the road in Zambia — at least most of the time.

Car rental agencies exist in Zambia, but the costs are potentially great. Not only are rental rates high (US$100/day), but some of the main roads in Zambia are in very poor condition. Potholes often take up the entire road, and during the rainy season, large sections of the roads wash away. As you move away from city centers (possibly only a kilometer or so away) you will encounter dirt roads. Although they might look solid, the dirt is often loose, and the chances of an accident are huge if you do not keep to a reasonable speed. Although you are not likely to get lost driving in Zambia (there are only a few roads), you are likely to underestimate the destructive power of these roads and damage a rental vehicle, or worse, yourself! 4WD vehicles are recommended at any time and necessary on dirt roads in the rainy season, although some roads will become completely impassable then.

Remember: there are no Roadside Assistance Packages, and very few ambulances, tow-trucks, or emergency vehicles of any kind in Zambia. Given the circumstances, bush mechanics can do an amazingly good job of patching up your vehicle, but patching up humans isn’t so easy!

BY TRAIN:

You can catch TAZARA trains between Kapiri Mposhi and Nakonde at the Tanzanian border. The Zambezi train, operated by Zambia Railways runs between Livingstone and Kitwe via the capital Lusaka and Kapiri Mposhi every Wednesday. All trains are relatively reliable and safe, but slow. You might still consider them for the views and sense of adventure they provide, though.

BY TAXI:

In the south the use of private taxis or cabs is easy enough. Cabs are a distinctive light blue, though not all have a taxi sign on top. Most drivers will negotiate a rate and are quite happy to drive between cities and often cross in Zimbabwe from Livingstone.

EAT:

Traditional Zambian food revolves around one staple, maize, served in one form, nsima (n’SHEE-ma). Nsima is basically a type of thick porridge, rolled into balls with your right hand and dipped into a variety of stews known as relishes (ndiwo, umunani). Those who can afford them eat relishes of beef, chicken or fish, but the many who can’t make do with beans, tiny dried fish (kapenta), peanuts, pumpkin leaves (chibwabwa) and other vegetables such as okra (ndelele), cabbage and rape. At breakfast, nsima can be served watered down into a soup, maybe with a little sugar. Local restaurants will serve nsima and relish for less than 5 kwacha.

Western food has also made major inroads, particularly in major cities, and in Lusaka or Livingstone you can find almost any food you like. Fast food — including chips and burgers, pizza, and fried chicken — is very popular in Zambia. Bakeries making cheap fresh bread are a common sight in towns, and rice from Chama provides an alternative staple if all the maize starts to get to you.

For sit-down meals, ethnic eateries are popular. In Lusaka, especially noteworthy is the Sunday brunch at The Intercontinental; and if you like Indian food, be sure to hit The Dil. Of course, game parks often cater to wealthy — usually foreign — visitors; therefore, high-quality Western meals can be found easily. Along the major roadways, you will find “tuck shops” featuring packaged cookies or take-away meals — meat pies or sausage rolls, for instance — which may or may not satisfy you.

Finally, in terms of hygiene outside the major cities, you are unlikely to find a proper washroom with running water. You will probably be given a bowl of water, a piece of soap, and a (damp) towel. Therefore, some travelers bring small bottles of anti-bacterial hand soap with them.

DRINK:

Tap water in Zambia is generally not drinkable, at least unless boiled. Bottled water is widely available in cities, but not necessarily in rural areas. It is advisable to carry chlorine pills to purify water, in case of emergency.

Soft drinks:

A traditional local drink worth trying is maheu, a somewhat gritty and vaguely yogurty but refreshing beverage made from maize meal. Factory-produced maheu is sweet, comes in plastic bottles and is available in a variety of flavors including banana, chocolate and orange, while homemade versions are usually unflavored and less sweet.

Coke products are accessible and cheap at less than a quarter a bottle, but beware of the deposit system: in rural areas, you may have to return an empty bottle before they’ll sell you a new one!

Beer:

Zambia’s best-known brew is Mosi, a clear 4% lager available everywhere. Eagle has more taste and more kick at 5.5%, while Zambezi Lager is a microbrew worth sampling if you run into it. The South African brand Castle is also bottled locally, and all of the above run around a clear 4% lager available everywhere. Eagle has more taste and more kick at 5.5% in a store or a clear 4% lager available everywhere. Eagle has more taste and more kick at 5.5%-2 in a bar.

If you are near the borders, you are likely to find Carlsberg (good, from Malawi), Simba (excellent, from the Democratic Republic of the Congo), Kilimanjaro (nice lager, from Tanzania), and Tusker (strong, from Kenya). Other imports can be found in larger markets but will also cost more.

Local alcohol:

The locals’ drink of choice is masese (muh-SE-say) or ucwala (uch-WALA), also known as Chibuku after the biggest brand, made from maize, millet, or cassava and resembling sour porridge in texture and taste. If you want to try this, it’s best to look out for the factory-made kind in milk-carton-like containers.

In rural areas, there are opportunities to drink local “homebrews.” A wide variety of homebrews exist in Zambia, from beers made from honey (in the Southern province of the country), to wine made from tea leaves (in the Eastern portion of the country).

Finally, there is kachasu (cuh-CHA-suh), a spirit distilled from anything Zambians can get their hands on — including battery acid and fertilizer. For obvious reasons, therefore, it is better to avoid this moonshine.

On a final note, most men at bars are relaxing, while many women at bars are working. Therefore, if you are a single woman in a Zambian bar, be aware that you might be approached and offered the opportunity to do something you did not intend to do.

Accommodation in Zambia runs the gamut. In Zambia, you can sleep in an top-notch hotel for a few hundred dollars per night (such as The Intercontinental); or you can stay in an independent hotel (like The Ndeke), for about $50; or you can opt for a budget experience, and spend about: $5 to $8 (camping) or $10/15 (dorm bed) or $30 (double room) at a one of about 12 backpackers hostels around Zambia. These are only a few of the options. There are now many Budget Lodges in many towns from K 70 a night. You need to ask around when you get to a town.

Outside the big cities or tourist areas, however, you might be hard-pressed to find quality accommodation. If your tastes run to the elegant — or even if you demand constant electricity — you might want to reconsider venturing too deep into the bush. However, if you seek an enjoyable, memorable, and authentic night at a local hotel, you might be pleasantly surprised.

TBC.