São Tomé and Príncipe uses the new dobra, denoted by the symbol “nDb” (ISO currency code: STN). In 2018, the old dobra (Db, ISO currency code: STD) was converted to the new dobra at a rate of 1000 Db to 1 nDB.

It is a restricted currency: the import and export of local currency is prohibited. The import of foreign currency is unlimited subject to declaration, and you may export only up to the amount you import. Travelers’ checks are no longer accepted. Euros, and sometimes US dollars, are commonly accepted at larger restaurants and shops. The currency has been pegged to the euro since 2010.

There are no ATMs that take overseas cards. your need to bring sufficient cash in Euro.

Cash withdrawal with a Visa card mybe available from the main bank in São Tomé.

The Pestana hotels may offer a cash advance (if they have enough cash at hand themselves). Expect a 5% commission for their service and not too generous an exchange rate.

On São Tomé Island, there are many taxis, including shared ones that depart to other cities when enough people are there. It is common for tourists to rent a car or scooter to better explore all that the island has to offer. Beware that although roads are paved, they are often not in good condition.

To get to Príncipe, the most common choice for tourists are commercial flights (STP Airways) connecting São Tomé International Airport to Príncipe Airport. Beware that the planes are very small. Locals instead typically hop on a cargo boat, but the 10 hour overnight journey is not considered particularly safe. There are faster charter boats that can do the trip in 3.5h.

On Príncipe, there are fewer roads, and many are not paved. It is common to hire a driver (car or motorbike) to explore the island, or to hire a boat.

EAT:

Fish is a staple of the São Toméan diet, often served with breadfruit and mashed, cooked bananas. Tropical fruits, such as pineapple, avocado, and bananas, are significant components of the cuisine. The use of hot spices is prominent in São Tomése cuisine. The variety of fish is wide, including flying fish at certain times of year. Inland, many São Toméans get their protein from buzios, large land snails. Sea snails are also quite common along the coast. In spite of the abject poverty, São Toméans can always count on some sustenance from the wide array of tropical fruits. The hotels in the capital offer European-style fare at European prices.

Roça São João dos Angolares in the village of Angolares 42 km SE of São Tomé city on EN No. 2. Make reservations as far in advance as possible (+239 9906900), but it is worth it. Gourmet meals served as a multiple course prix fixe are worth the extra workout you will need. Also offers rooms from €60 (Dec 2017).

Sum Secreto. Standard grill fare, but they can handle large groups without a reservation. Service is generally very good, and the meat and fish are excellent. Nothing fancy, but the place is popular because it has that secret something.

DRINK:

Beer is readily available everywhere, though São Toméans are not known as big drinkers. Local brands include Creolla and Rosema. Inland, palm wine is available very inexpensively from vendors along the road. In the capital, whiskey and other spirits are popular among the elites. Wine, especially Portuguese vinho verde, is popular with fish dishes.

A small handful of hotels exist in the capital. Near the town of Santana lies an idyllic bed and breakfast with stunning views. Opulent resorts have been built at the very northern and southern extremes of the country, on the small island of Ilheu das Rolas, and at Ilha Bom Bom off the coast of Príncipe.

In Santo António, the main city of Príncipe, several small pousadas (B&Bs) can be found.

• Bom Bom Island Resort. In addition to an ensuite bathroom, air-conditioning and other modern amenities, each bungalow has its own veranda with views across the green palm fronds and the bay. Bom Bom’s restaurant, bar and marina are on a tiny islet, which can be reached by crossing the 230-metre wooden walkway.
• Mucumbli An amazing lodge, situated a view minutes down the road from the city of Neves. It only has 5 bungalows so book well in advance! Owned my Titiano and Marie, an extremely nice and helpful Italian couple that arrived to the Island in the 1980s and built this place little by little. Private and remote (in São Tomé terms that is), sitting on the deck watching the sunset side of the island or going to the beach or hitting the trails, this place is a must. There is also a donkey pen, that were practically saved by the owners (after the government received them as a gift from Angola and didn’t know what to do with them). Includes breakfast.

Shopping is limited, but there are a few things worth purchasing, and possibly of export quality:

Coffee. São Tomé used to be famous for its coffee. The quality suffered a bit after the newly-independent Sao Tome government broke up the old rocas into sharecropper lots, but given the quality of the volcanic soil the coffee was still great. There has been a surge in interest in São Tomé coffee, mostly due to Claudio Corrallo’s work, but you can walk into any shop in São Tomé and get great coffee cheap.

Rum. São Tomé has two rum factories within an easy trip: ‘Gravana, which is sold out of a car repair shop next to the Central Market, and Me-Zochi which is in Trindad behind the church. Prices of a one liter bottle of rum vary from US$3 – 7 depending on the price of sugar. Gravana rum is dark and sweet, and is best served over ice and savored like a scotch. Me-Zochi rum is also good, but the factory also sells different types of liqueurs made from local fruits. Most of their product is shipped to Europe.

Baskets. Baskets are part and parcel of everyday life in São Tomé. Therefore they are plentiful and cheap. They are not fancy but have their charm.

Miscellaneous tourist stuff. Ossobbo is across from the Fort São Sebastiao. The shop features local artisans and products of São Tomé, from coffee, chocolate, cinnamon and vanilla to carvings, t-shirts and thumb drives. Prices are reasonable, but the best part is the shop is run by the non-profit Sisters of Misericordia; all profits go to the craftsmen or charitable works.