The local currency is the Guyanese dollar, denoted $ or G$ (ISO 4217 international currency code: GYD). The currency is freely convertible but nearly impossible to get rid of outside Guyana, the neighbouring countries and one exchange bureau in London Gatwick airport.

Banknotes are issued in G$20, 100, 500 and 1,000 and there are G$1, G$5 and G$10 coins. G$500, G$1,000 and G$5,000 banknotes have a holographic stripe with a colourful macaw.

When people in Guyana refer to buses, they mean minibuses. Minibuses travel throughout Guyana and are the cheapest way to travel. Minibus fares range from G$60-1,000 depending on the length of the journey. Travel in this mode at night could be risky.

Many parts of Guyana are separated by large rivers. These areas can be traversed by way of river taxi. Go to the port village and ask from where the speedboats launch. Ask other passengers what the fare is while travelling as boat operators tend to seek higher fees from tourists. Do not take “specials” without first negotiating the price.

Taxis are a good way to get around in Georgetown. Fares should never be more than G$500 for travel within the city and most fares should be around G$400. All taxi number plates begin with ‘H.’ There are set prices for taxis for different destinations, e.g. from the airport to town costs G$5,000, from the airport to Moleson Creek is G$24,000. From Ogle to downtown is G$1,500.

One can also rent cars or 4x4s; check the local telephone listings for car rentals. Consult more than one rental agency as prices can vary. You might also be able to negotiate the prices charged to some extent. Deposits are usually required. If renting a vehicle, be sure to inquire whether your driver’s licence will be acceptable. Violations of traffic laws can result in much time wasted and possible trips to the local courts.

EAT:

Guyanese food, like the entire country, is a creole fusion.

If there’s a dominant cuisine, it is dishes influenced by the Indian subcontinent that have been localized. The most prominent of these are the curries, especially chicken, pork, beef, pumpkin and aubergine. Larger roti shops and those by the sea will have shrimp, crab and other seafoods. Curries are traditionally served with roti, an Indian bread or rice.

The national dish of Guyana is pepperpot, a slow cooked stew of pork (or other meats), red peppers (capsicum), cinnamon and casareep. It is dark in colour and strongly flavoured and usually reserved for special occasions such as Christmas, but you can find restaurants in Georgetown serving the dish all year round. Pepperpot is enjoyed with plain white bread or roti.

Chinese restaurants are common, with noodle dishes such as chow mein and lo mein along with meat and rice dishes. The growing Brazilian population have led to several outdoor BBQ restaurants and churrascarias opening in the capital and near the border in Lethem.

Georgetown has a greater variety of food options than elsewhere in the country, which include a couple of steakhouses, upmarket colonial dining, European fare and Indian food. In smaller towns, there may only be restaurants serving a creole menu of a few dishes, which almost always includes a curry or two and a noodle dish.

In jungle lodges, the food can be limited to tinned goods and rice, along with whatever can be caught or grown locally.

DRINK:

The most popular national drink is Caribbean-style dark rum. Some national favourites are XM “10” Year OLD, produced by local beverage giant Banks DIH Limited and El Dorado and X-tra Mature which both offer 5, 10, 12 and 25 year varieties.

El Dorado also offers a 15 year old variety which has won the “Best Rum in the World” award since 1999. Mix the cheaper ones with Coke or coconut water if you please. All are quality enough to drink neat or by themselves with the 25 year-olds comparing with high-quality scotch whisky.

Banks Beer produced by local beverage giant Banks DIH Limited is the National beer. It comes in a lager and a stout (Milk Stout). The beverage giant also bottles and distributes Heineken Beer and Guinness Stout under licence.

Also available are the lighter Carib (Trinidad and Tobago) and darker Mackeson’s. Guinness is brewed locally under licence and is a bit sweeter than its Irish counterpart, but just as good. Polar (Venezuelan) and Skol (Brazilian) can be found throughout the country. You can also find Heineken and Corona at posher bars in Georgetown.

Georgetown has far and away the biggest range of options, but here there are a number of problems. None of the “luxury” options in the capital – primarily the Pegasus and the Princess, have the polish or charm to justify the hundreds of US dollars they charge. On the other end of the scale are a number of tiny guesthouses and pay-by-the-hour places with lower prices. The only “backpacker” option is the Tropicana Hostel, which unfortunately is above a club with the slogan “All Nite Long”: it’s true. There are some good options in Georgetown, especially at the three and four star level, including the colonial option Cara Lodge and the Herdmanston Lodge. The rising Chinese and Brazilian populations in town may lead to better options.

In the interior there are some amazing jungle lodges and camps, including those at the ranches and the south and the community-supported ecolodges in the middle of the country. Other developing options are community supported huts in Amerindian towns on the Linden-Lethm road.

The adventurous could try to get by with a hammock and paying small fees to hang it up in a benab. This isn’t an option in Georgetown and will involve some planning ahead, lots of bug spray and cunning to accomplish.

Some small towns have basic guesthouses, which may have fans, mosquito nets or other amenities.

There are numerous markets and shopping malls, in Guyana. Stabroek Market is a quaint market in Georgetown. Trips to the market for tourists are best done in groups or with a local with whom you feel comfortable. Muggings are possible but not frequent.

Lots of locally made and beautiful crafts ranging from paintings; to sculpture; to leather purses, satchels, wallets; hand-painted, tie-dyed and batik(ed) fabrics, pressed flowers, sun hats; semi-precious stones and hand-crafted costume jewellery using indigenous materials, can be purchased at an esplanade outside the Central Post-Office near the National Museum in downtown Georgetown. Ask around and you’ll find out about the craft and gift shops as well as galleries.

Guyana is also noted for its exceptional gold jewellery.