The currency used in Somalia (except Somaliland) is the Somali shilling (shilin), denoted by the symbol Sh.So., or in Arabic, شلن‎‎. The ISO currency code is SOS. Only the SOS1000 note is used, and doesn’t go far… a glass of (unpotable) water will cost SOS1000. Exchange rates are extremely volatile and in March 2017, US$1 on the free market rate would get you Sh.So. 25,000. Much more useful are goods with which you could barter.

Somalia was without an effective government for 17 years; this has had a negative effect on the roads and transit. There are two different modes of public transportation that you can use in Somalia: buses and taxis. The common rule of the road that seems to still be in force is that Somalis generally drive on the right.

EAT:

Somali meals are meat driven, vegetarianism is relatively rare. Goat, beef, lamb and sometimes chicken is fried in ghee, or grilled or broiled. It is spiced with turmeric, coriander, cumin and curry and eaten with basmati rice for lunch, dinner and sometimes breakfast.

Vegetables appear to largely be side dishes, and often are woven into a meat dish, such as combining potatoes, carrots and peas with meat and making a stew. Green peppers, spinach and garlic were also noted as the types of vegetables most commonly eaten. Bananas, dates, apples, oranges, pears and grapes are among some of the more popular fruits (a raw, sliced banana is often eaten with rice). But in Somalia, Somalis had a much larger selection of fruits – like mango and guava – from which they would make fresh juice. Somali stores, therefore, carry among the widest selection of fruit juices, both Kern’s juices as well as imports from India and Canada. And there is also a selection of instant juice: frozen or available as a powder.

The overriding characteristic of the Somali diet is that it consists of halal foods (Arabic for “allowable” as opposed to haram: “prohibited”). Somalis are Muslims and under Islamic Law (or Shar’1ah), pork and alcohol are not allowed.

Other common foods include a type of homemade bread called injera (like a large, spongy pancake) and sambusas (like the Indian samosas), which are deep-fried triangular-shaped pastries filled with meat or vegetables.

The cuisine of Somalia varies from region to region and consists of an exotic mixture of native Somali,Yemeni, Persian, Turkish, Indian and Italian influences. It is the product of Somalia’s rich tradition of trade and commerce. Despite the variety, there remains one thing that unites the various regional cuisines: all food is served halal.

DRINK:

Somalis adore spiced tea. A minority of Somalis drink a tea similar to Turkish tea which they brought from Middle eastern countries to their homeland. However, the majority drink a traditional and cultural tea known as Shah Hawaash because it is made of cardamom (in Somali, Xawaash or Hayle} and cinnamon bark (in Somali, Qoronfil).

Islam forbids alcohol and Somalia follows this rather strictly. If you do find some, don’t show it or drink it in public, as there’s a strong chance that you could offend and be fined. Abdalla Nuradin Bar offers alcohol for foreign tourists.

As for the coffee (kahwa), try mirra, made in the Somali style. Sometimes spiced with cardamom, it’s strong and tastes great, particularly drunk with fresh dates. Tea (chai) usually comes with dollops of sugar and perhaps a few mint leaves (na’ana).

Bosaso and Hargeisa have some Western-level hotels. Hotels are also available in Mogadishu, typically with security as a top priority.

TBC.